Fairway Locks Its Beer Behind Oppressive New Gate

A festive new entrance at Fairway Market at 74th and Broadway.

Some noticeable changes have been made at Fairway this week: fake yellow carnations now decorate one of the entrances, and a retractable steel gate has been installed on the second floor, blocking access to the beer section in the evening—even though the store remains open and beer sales are still legal.

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ILTUWS first spotted the gate on Monday, September 30, at 11:30 p.m. Fairway, formerly a 24-hour grocery store, now closes at midnight. Seeing the gate blocking the beer section brought to mind the locked-up deodorant, body wash, and toothpaste at certain drug stores. Quick, convenient purchases that usually take just a few minutes now face an unwelcome obstacle.

A Fairway staff member opens the beer gate.

ILTUWS spoke with several employees at the first-floor checkout kiosks, who explained that the gate serves two purposes: to keep those under 21 out and to deter theft. They noted that the gate goes up at 10 p.m., meaning anyone needing beer after that time must locate an employee to unlock it.

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The New York Post reported in May that shoplifting complaints had increased by 5%, with 21,578 incidents recorded at that point in 2024—up from 20,552 during the same time period in 2023.

“This is terrible,” said Susan, a nearby neighbor attempting to buy beer on Tuesday night. “It took me about ten minutes to find someone to open this thing.” Her frustration was evident as she lamented the difficulty of locating an employee to retrieve the key. Who can blame a New Yorker for wanting to accomplish something simple in a New York minute? Even with Fairway Market Mobile available for checking out on her phone, the gate completely undermined that convenience.

“You come upstairs, then you have to go downstairs to find somebody because there’s no one up here. Then you have to come back up. It’s a lot of running around,” said Susan. She hopes the gate will be removed and is considering buying her beverages at a local bodega instead.

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Fairway has installed cameras throughout the store and employs facial recognition technology on customers, allowing them to collect, retain, convert, store and share all their customers’ biometric information. So, why do they need a gate? “All the technology in the world, and they got to put up a wall?” said a customer sarcastically as they stood at the upstairs gate unsure about what to do next.

ILTUWS reached out to Wakefern Food Corporation on Wednesday, October 3. The New Jersey-based company acquired Fairway in 2020. We inquired about the necessity of locking the beer section during store hours, given the presence of cameras and facial recognition technology. Additionally, we asked about the intended closing time for the gate, their gate policy, and any messages for customers who find the gate to be a significant inconvenience.

We got in.

ILTUWS did not receive a response from Wakefern Food Corporation immediately, so we made another trip to Fairway to speak with more employees on Thursday, October 4 around 2 p.m. “One night in mid-September, eleven cases of beer were stolen at once,” said a Fairway employee, expressing deep remorse for the inconvenience customers faced with the gate up. “The stealing has been bad,” they added.

Wakefern Food Corporation issued a statement to ILTUWS at 5:10 p.m. on Thursday, October 3. “The store will be installing a call button to help customers quickly purchase beer during hours when the upstairs registers are closed. An increase in theft of beer prompted the decision to limit access to alcohol after 10 p.m. We apologize for any inconvenience.”

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Anyone who has shopped at Fairway just before closing knows they run a tight ship. The floor manager is well-known for reminding customers that the store closes at midnight and urging them to wrap up their purchases. On multiple occasions, we’ve walked in just before closing, heard the manager’s reminder, and happily complied, eager to respect the team’s time. While these interactions are enjoyable, we worry about the day we might have to request the gate to be opened when there are only a few minutes left. Although the process is straightforward, the presence of the gate could lead to missing the closing deadline altogether.

“This is the city now,” said Jason Stevenson, another local picking up a case of Sierra Nevada on Tuesday night. “If you don’t lock it up, someone’s going to take it. Maybe they should consider hiring security?”

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