Adios (goodbye) and zai jian (goodbye) to La Caridad 78, a Cuban Chinese restaurant beloved by Upper West Siders from the late 1960s until its recent closing. As an urban anthropologist might explain, the combination of Cuban and Cantonese comfort foods is not accidental, and has interesting roots in modern political history.
Many Chinese came to Latin America as indentured servants in the late 19th and the early part of the 20th century. They established businesses, worked as laborers and founded Chinese schools. Over time they would speak both Chinese and Spanish, while carrying on the culinary traditions of both cultures. Unsettled by the Castro regime, many came to New York in the 1950s and for the following 30 years, seeking a more secure life for themselves and their families.
The restaurant business always had a place for comfort food before uber-sophistication began evolving around 1960. Serving up Chinese and Cuban kitchen foods appealed to new immigrants as a business. That these dishes could be prepared inexpensively, in large portions for locals who enjoyed their novel, spicy flavors was a recipe for enduring success – until Covid.
As the menu offered fried plantains and frijoles negros (black beans), spicy roast chicken and crispy pork filled dumplings, bistec en escabeche (marinated steak) with vegetables, pork chops with red beans and yellow rice, and sesame chicken, customers could order combinations of both cuisines or share a variety of platters with friends, and savor flan for dessert.
La Caridad 78 was opened by Raphael Lee in 1968. His son Sam Lee continued the business over the later years when only one Cuban cook, Raphael Wong, remained. Most others were Chinese. In the early days especially, La Caridad was crowded, sometimes with lines out the door. Thousands of reviews through the years reveal great affection among both tourists and local residents for this bustling, unpretentious, sometimes noisy restaurant where the staff was friendly, Cubano music played and you never went away hungry.
Minus La Caridad 78, the southwest corner of 78th and Broadway will never seem quite the same.
I remember when it was double the size and how shocked we were to see it bisected! Such good food.
I believe the Cuban cook’s name was Antonio Wong
And you really shouldn’t say “zai jian”. Pretty sure the Cuban Chinese were mostly Cantonese speakers (and the food is a derivative of Cantonese cuisine).
One of my favorite places to go to when I lived on the WEA@ 71str
Heart breaking, and we’ve lost so many neighborhood spots. I’m so happy to have enjoyed this spot. I’ll pray that La Dinastia survives. That’s my spot!
This was my husband’s favorite take out restaurant. He loved the Beef Stew, it had rice ,potatoes , beef chunks and gravy. I always stuck with the chicken and rice dish. Many fond memories of how the UWS used to be. I have lived here since 1962 and certainly have seen the neighborhoods many changes, many not for the better.
A huge loss for the UWS
It’s true we lost many wonderful nice restaurants like La Caridad and The Cottage
yes, let’s hope La Dinastia lasts. Good luck to all their workers.
True about the crazy lefties, giving into the lying about the Socialists and the
Communists —- all promises then you no longer are free and you have no money.
Where do they get their facts? I’m 88 yrs. old and born in Brooklyn to Italian
immigrant parents — Yes, we had the dream with hard work and loving the USA. Wake
up you left with no facts. God Please Help Us Win.
Has nothing to do with politics or this is not the correct forum to discuss it here. Thanks
Has nothing to do with politics or this is not the correct forum to discuss it here. Thanks
So very sad- lived nearby since 1964- I don’t beleive that there are any Cuban style restaurants remaining on the UWS- Malecon on 97th Street and Amsterdam Ave, remains an excellent Dominican style restaurant.
What was your favorite dish? I liked the Steak picadillo with fried onions, fried plantains and avocado salad. Watched it go from little hole in the wall, to twice the size, to half the size, to gone. So sad.
Say it ain’t so! This news really makes me sad. For thirty years I’ve been running over to La Caridad for lunch whenever I had a craving for a chorizo omelet with black beans, yellow rice, and an avocado salad. Their food was so good, and the spartan decor and brusque waiters made it all the better. It was the last of its kind in that neighborhood. Now all that’s left are places that charge $30 for a chicken salad with designer pickles.
Loved their fried pork chops with white rice and black beans-
They had the best Won Ton Soup I’ve tasted anywhere in the world! Some of my very favorites are their pork chops in black bean sauce with tostones W/mojo , Chicken egg foo yong with yellow rice and black beans and their Ropa Vieja w yellow rice!
Sure going to miss this place!!!!!
Always ordered fried rice with boneless chicken with black beans
There is La Dinastia on 72nd St between Amsterdam and Columbus.
I was a regular in the ’80. It was tiny. A few little tables and the counter for maybe 10. Mario behind the counter. The language spoken was unique. A hybrid (a la Yiddish) of Spanish and Cantonese seasoned with English. Like ‘salsa ha’ = shrimp (Cantonese ‘har’) and red sauce (Spanish sauce). Easier and faster to say than one language or the other. Lechon w/moro y yucca on the weekends!
The clientele and their antics were like a multi-cultural updated version of Damon Runyon, only to be found in NY before it became a caricature of itself.
Adios and thanks for the meals and memories!
Where can one go for Cuban Chinese? La Caridad 78 was a unique restaurant with awesome combination plates. My favorite was fried rice with bistec palomilla (Cuban steak with onions), maduros (sweet plantains) and a salad. Never left hungry or disappointed. Another icon that gone from the tapestry that made the Upper Westside. Restaurants that offered quality and quantity while remaining affordable. Can’t say the same for the replacements that are here today and gone tomorrow. Pepito where are we going to eat now?
It’s an offensive mendacity to ascribe the Chinese of Cuba as having been “unsettled” by the Castro regime. They weren’t “unsettled” – their businesses – from restaurants to laundries to retail stores – were confiscated by the communist government.
I’m sorry to see La Caridad close – but the food was mediocre at best. The Chinese food was terrible, the Cuban food barely adequate – the beans were out of a can, flavorless.
Gusanos got what they deserved.