The arrival of spring, marked by visual changes like the blooming of cherry blossoms, elicits special feelings in the Japanese people. Japanese culinary aesthetics often reflect the changing seasons, too, particularly in dishes like sushi and kaiseki, characterized by their vibrant, light, and refreshing qualities.
A special spring menu currently being served at Takeda–the most authentic and innovative sushi and kappo restaurant on the UWS, located at 566 Amsterdam Avenue (between 87th and 88th streets)–is a great way to experience such spring flavors of Japan.
The restaurant’s owners, Mr. Takeda from Osaka—known as Japan’s foodie capital—and Ms. Satomi Tanaka from Toyama—known for its exceptional sushi—are dedicated to crafting dishes that transcend typical sushi, using fresh fish and traditional techniques. The menu cleverly includes grilled, smoked, and soup dishes alongside sushi, all of which reflect the nuanced and sophisticated flavors of Japan’s culinary artistry. Both Osaka and Toyama are featured in the New York Times Travel section’s “52 Destinations of the World 2025,” underscoring their culinary significance.
Takeda is not your typical sushi restaurant. Its unassuming exterior might be easily overlooked, but inside, the chef-owner, Mr. Yukihiro Takeda, works with the focus and precision of a skilled surgeon or a devout monk. The restaurant features an intimate sushi bar with just eight seats, where Mr. Takeda prepares a 19-course menu that includes several spring-inspired dishes.
The Omakase meal begins with a trio of appetizers: horse mackerel wrapped in ultra-thin egg custard, lean tuna sashimi, and sparkling firefly squid with vinegared miso, accompanied by homemade salted cherry leaf chips. The dish’s subtle acidity and soft textures set the tone for the culinary delights to follow.
Following this, the Kama toro (fatty tuna) is expertly wrapped around scallion and served with yuzu ponzu, creating a melt-in-your-mouth experience.
The third dish features sea bream, meticulously grilled with miso on cedar bark over a charcoal fire. The dish is beautifully balanced with pickled radish and toasty ginkgo nuts, providing a delightful contrast of flavors.
Interestingly, it’s not until the fourth dish that nigiri sushi appears on Takeda’s Omakase course, showcasing the restaurant’s emphasis on variety. The fish, mainly sourced from Tokyo’s Toyosu Market—the largest in the world—is traceable and of the highest quality.
The long-awaited fourth course introduces a nigiri made with Nodoguro (Blackthroat seaperch). Notably, there are no small soy sauce plates at the sushi bar, as Chef Takeda carefully seasons each piece of sushi with just the right amount of boiled-down soy sauce or sea salt. This particular Nodoguro, lightly seared and seasoned with natural salt, offers a flavor reminiscent of a rustic campfire meal.
Subsequent dishes feature ingredients like button shrimp from Hokkaido and cuttlefish from Chiba, with the sushi rice portioned small to emphasize the natural flavors and create a satisfying sense of volume.
Another highlight is the salted salmon roe from Hokkaido, served over a small bowl of sushi rice instead of as nigiri, showcasing an innovative presentation.
The first half of the course culminates with golden eye snapper and sea urchin from Hokkaido, leading up to the 12th dish—a seasonal soup. This soup, vibrant with spring clams and adorned with sakura mochi, mitsuba, daikon, bamboo shoots, carrots, and edible sakura petals, beautifully captures the essence of spring.
While I’ve highlighted several dishes, the full 19-course journey reveals its depth and elegance more fully in the latter half, leaving a lasting impression of culinary excellence.
Takeda’s spring omakase course is available until the end of April, offering a unique opportunity to savor the season’s best in an unforgettable setting.
Takeda Sushi
566 Amsterdam Avenue (between 87th and 88th streets)
takedanyc.com (reservations required)
takedanyjp.com (blog)
