Wau Revamped to Kancil: A New Restaurant by Chef Simpson Wong and Salil Mehta

The city is always changing, so we were surprised when one of our favorite spots, Wau—a Southeast Asian eatery at 434 Amsterdam Avenue and West 81st Street—evolved into Kancil, a new Malaysian-style restaurant by Chef Simpson Wong and Salil Mehta, founder of Fungi Hospitality Group.

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Mehta, known for Laut—one of the first Malaysian restaurants in New York to earn a Michelin Star—opened Wau on the Upper West Side in 2021 before unveiling Indian restaurant Kebab aur Sharab in 2022. Already fans of the previous offerings, we were eager to experience Kancil.

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True to its name, Kancil—which refers to the mouse deer in Malay, a small but agile animal native to Southeast Asia and often featured in Malaysian folklore as a clever and resourceful character—captures the essence of those qualities. When it came time to order drinks, our waiter opened their “Kancil Box,” a thoughtfully curated selection of local Malaysian ingredients: turmeric, coconut, poblano, tamarind, lemongrass, and rempah spice. Whoa! I chose lemongrass and rempah spice with tequila, while my guest opted for turmeric and coconut with gin. This set the stage for an exciting journey, guided by our waiter, who helped lead us along the way.

For our food selections, we explored a range of menu offerings, including small plates, noodles, large plates, and sides. To start, we shared the Block Island squid for $23, which came with leeks and carrots, set atop a squid ink, soy, and anise glaze, and finished with pickled persimmon. This flavorful dish reflects the techniques and flavors that have shaped Chef Simpson Wong’s identity. Growing up, Wong helped his mother cook in the remote Malaysian rainforest before mastering global techniques in New York City. On my next visit, I look forward to trying the Kerang Gulai Tumis, a Malaysian clam dip with turmeric sticky rice and tapioca crackers, priced at $17.

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We chose the la la bee hoon from the noodle category, priced at $27. It comes with cockles, Manila clams, and little necks clams in a white wine broth. The vermicelli noodles are delightfully thin and easy to eat. We loved the dish’s temperature, which was perfect for diving right in. Another option that caught my eye was the abacus beads, priced at $23. These feature taro root and pumpkin dumplings, mushroom Duxelles, Kulim oil (derived from Kulim fruit, found deep within the jungle and indigenous to Kedah State in Malaysia, offering taste notes of shiitake, truffle, and garlic).

Speaking with Salil Mehta, he shared how much he learned about the neighborhood while Wau was open. “We decided to use local ingredients and make the food more approachable and lighter,” Mehta said. “Finesse, as opposed to punch, in terms of flavor.” He also mentioned they replaced the tables and chairs and reconfigured the layout, eliminating the sidewalk enclosure. According to Mehta, this change helps give passersby a glimpse inside, making the restaurant feel more welcoming.

He also told me the music we could hear was Thai house music—fun, groovy, and providing just the right level of vivacious energy. It creates an atmosphere where you can enjoy the vibe while still holding a conversation and hearing yourself think. Aces.

Surf and turf was our approach to the large plate portion of the evening. Our waiter suggested we try the Climbing Tree Farm pork shank, priced at $34. It came with lettuce and tortillas, which we could cut up and wrap the pork in, along with Cinchalok chili and culantro chimichurri, either to dip in or pour onto the wrap. There’s also a braising broth with rice ziti, making this an excellent dish to share or enjoy on your own.

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The Long Island local fish, as the menu states, was striped bass when we visited, priced at $36. It was served with a black calamansi crust, arrowhead, Brussels sprouts, and Malaccan curry. A fine fish, if there ever was one. Absolutely zero regrets about the surf-and-turf strategy; I would order both again, but would love to tour more of the menu next time. Both plates also came with their own carving knife, making sharing easy if that’s the route you wanted to take.

With a deliciously unique menu, embracing change can be a great thing—especially when it’s in the hands of Chef Wong and Salil Mehta.

You can view the full Kancil menu here. They’re open Monday through Thursday from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. (Bar till 10:30 p.m.) From 5 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. on Friday and Saturday (bar till 11:30 p.m.) Sunday is 5 p.m. to 9:30 p.m.

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